Stockholm shines - even in the rain

Stockholm's long summer days with warm and pleasant temperatures certainly provided more than a welcome break from the heatwave that hit much of continental Europe this year.

There are, of course, those short winter days, where the average temperature in the Swedish capital in January and February is a bracing -1 degree Celsius. But no need to dwell on that for the moment.

Right now Sweden holds the six-month rotating presidency of the European Union.

So you might be expecting it to put on something of an effort to promote the fact especially in the capital, but instead it seems to be keeping rather a low profile (in Stockholm at least) with barely a sign that it's currently "in charge" of the 27-nation bloc.

But maybe that's just a case of forward thinking and not wanting to be too closely associated with being the country that was at the helm should the Lisbon treaty shortly be dealt its final blow: the Irish will vote for the second time next month on whether to accept or reject the treaty.


Mind you, the EU probably isn't uppermost in most visitors' minds to the city.

So when you touch down at the rather dated Arlanda airport, what can you expect?

Well a warm welcome to begin with (even if the outside temperature isn't exactly playing ball and it's raining) and for English-speakers the delight that you'll pretty much be understood wherever you go.

Should you decide to plump for a taxi rather than public transport to make the 40 kilometre trip to the city centre, don't be surprised to be riding in a hybrid car.

Perhaps Swedes took to heart a finding back in 2007 that the country had "the highest level of pollution-emitting cars in Western Europe." Something to do, according to the New York Times, with their "love affair with big, comfortable cars."

Whatever the case, Stockholm at least certainly seems to have cleaned up its act, with a recent report from the Austrian-based Central European Institute of Technology (CEIT), heaping praise on the fleet of "eco-taxis" which "make up 35 per cent of those" serving the airport.

When you hit the city itself, perhaps the most striking thing is the architecture - a perfect and surprisingly colourful blend of traditional and modern, with of course a healthy dollop of respect for the environment thrown in.

Royal palace

As over 30 per cent of the Stockholm is made up of waterways and the city is built on 14 islands, what better way to take a look at it than from a boat - and that's especially true when the heavens open in an effort to dampen your spirits.

Fear not though, from the shelter of one of the many companies offering boat tours, you'll be able to take in the sights and history of the city.

Probably the most informative and comprehensive is the two-hour "Under the bridges of Stockholm" that picks you up from either Stromkajen or Nybrokajen and takes you (not surprisingly perhaps) under 15 bridges and through two locks.

Or maybe you fancy the "Historical canal" or "Royal canal" tours - no prizes for guessing what they specialise in - which maybe try to pack a little less in to the time allotted.

Whichever one you choose, a boat trip is as essential for visitors to Stockholm as it would be say for those going to the "real" Venice in Italy.

While rain probably isn't the ideal accompaniment to a short break, when the sun puts in an appearance, the real beauty of the city shines through. Well let's face it, "good" weather always helps doesn't it?

Taking care not to get caught up in a passing horsebound royal military parade



(this is a country with a monarch after all) and avoiding being almost mown down by the olde worlde Djurgården tram,



now's the chance to flex those leg muscles, and don some sensible footwear as you head off to see the Old Town.

On the way though, you should try to drop in at Saluhall market, housed in a late 19th century red brick building and a veritable feast for the eyes and tantaliser for the tastebuds.

Try to get there just before the lunch hour rush begins as that'll give you the chance to wander around gaping at the fresh produce on sale (including the most gruesome-looking monkfish - is there any other sort?) before grabbing a seat and tucking in to some traditional Swedish fare.

Don't be surprised if you share your table with complete strangers as places are at a premium.

Once again though the Swedes show just how hospitable and friendly they are by helping you with any questions you might have about those unpronounceable dishes on the menu and they don't mind answering politely when you point to their plates and ask, "What is that?"

A good tip is to arrive hungry and leave stuffed, ready to pound the pavements (or take the metro) as you head off finally to the Old Town or Gamla Stan.

It's a maze of medieval streets, where you'll find (amongst other things) the city's cathedral, the Royal Palace, the Nobel Museum and innumerable souvenir shops in which you can of course pick up that Pippi Longstocking doll you've been "requested" to take home.

Pippi Longstocking, the fictional heroine of Astrid Lindgren's books for children

A weekend certainly isn't enough to do Stockholm anywhere near the justice it warrants.

But it serves as just a taster to an experience well worth repeating regardless of the weather - and perhaps not a moment too soon.