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Monday 7 September 2009

A slice of life in France - Saint Amand-Montrond in Cher

A recent headline in the daily French regional newspaper Le Berry républicain read something along the lines of "Bumper harvest, happy farming" ("Moisson copieuse, agriculture heureuse". Somehow it sounds better in French doesn't it?)

Not surprising really perhaps that agriculture should feature so strongly as the paper serves a region that in all senses of the word is very much at the heart of the country - both in where it lies and what happens there.

Grab a map of France and stick a pin roughly into the centre of what the French affectionately refer to as the "Hexagon" and you'll find the département of Cher.

It's one of six départments (along with l'Eure-et-Loir, l'Indre, l'Indre-et-Loire, le Loir-et-Cher and le Loiret) that make up the region known as Centre.

Although Cher is far from being the tourist magnet of much better known potential holiday destinations in France it has its distinct charm and is nowhere the backwater that it perhaps at first appears.

The largest town with a population of just 72,000 is Bourges, the "capital" of the département, complete of course with its 12th-13th century Gothic cathedral, a UNESCO World heritage centre described as "one of the great masterpieces of Gothic art" and "admired for its proportions and the unity of its design".

The town is also home to the annual spring music festival "Les printemps de Bourges" and of course it's just a 45 minute drive to the medieval hilltop town of Sancerre famous worldwide for its...well there's probably no need to go any further.

Travel 32 kilometres northwest of Bourges and you'll hit the département's second largest town, Vierzon, population 28,000 and with its share of chateaux (this is France after all) and a 12th century church.


Welcome to Apremont-sur-Allier


But drive towards the south of the département, and not forgetting on the way to stop by the charming Apremont-sur-Allier, one of the "most beautiful villages in France" (if you need proof of that epithet, these photos should help allay any doubts) and you'll come across a smaller and possibly less well-frequented town, Saint Amand-Montrond.

There you'll find a town packed with centuries of history, and one that while certainly not ostentatiously oozing wealth and prosperity, perhaps reflects a more authentic side of French life.

With a population of just 11,600, it's far from being a bustling metropolis, but that doesn't mean it has nothing to offer the curious visitor.

It's packed with history, and once you've left the main shopping thoroughfare and found your way to the streets of the old town, you're in for a real treat.

You can take in the Saint Vic museum or admire the sculpture of the 12 century Gothic church.

Wandering through the streets, you can follow an itinerary provided by the local tourist office, with a route offering explanations that'll help the development and history of the town come alive as you dwell in front of the Maison d'Angle or make your way to the Cours Manuel.

Maison d'Angle, Saint Amand-Montrond

All in all it's the kind of town where even the most hapless of photographers would be hard pushed not to take at least some snaps worth sharing.

History apart, there's also the proximity of Saint Amand-Montrond to the huge and immensely beautiful Forêt de Tronçais, which is actually in the neighbouring départment of Allier and, for nature lovers, definitely worth a trip in its own right.

The forest has over 10,000 hectares of trees, a majority of them oak with just under a dozen classified as being at the ripe old age of 350 years plus. There are 40-odd natural springs, four lakes and fauna and flora galore.

Indeed the official site promoting the forest and surrounding villages probably quite rightly heralds it as "the most beautiful oak forest in Europe".

And a great place to begin your discovery of the forest is the étang domanial de Tronçais (click here for a couple of photos)

As well as its history, Cher is renowned for its unspoilt natural surroundings and numerous waterways and Saint Amand-Montrond certainly fits the bill as being a gem for both lovers of history and nature.

And if you fancy discovering a part of France that is undeniably French, then it might well be a town worth considering.

Just don't tell too many people about it.


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