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Monday 6 July 2009

A slice of life in France - as seen through the back door - Joigny


Many French have been on the move this past weekend - quite literally so.

It was the start of the summer holidays: the period when the capital's major railway stations are usually chock-a-block with travellers, the airports witness a surge in those looking to make a quick getaway and there's the almost traditional chaos on the country's motorways.

The first weekend of July this year proved to be no exception to that rule with national radio reporting at midday on Saturday alone, a peak of around 400 kilometres of tailbacks as many took to their cars.

In spite of the busy start, this year is expected to be a tough one for the country's tourist industry.

Indeed studies carried out a few months ago repeatedly indicated that many here would be tightening their belts with anything up to 51 per cent saying they would be "staying at home" rather than taking to the skies for far flung destinations.

Whether that'll turn out to be the case of course will become clear as the summer progresses and the official figures start rolling in.

For the moment though, the juilletists, those who take their break in July, have begun their customary break, while the aoûtiens, who surprise, surprise, plump for August, are still at work.

France of course is a country steeped in history, with some spectacular scenery, and even the most incapable of photographers is up to the job of snapping at least one picture worth sharing especially in the days of the digital camera.

While the south has some of the best weather and never fails to attract millions of sun worshippers, the western coastline is also pretty much of a tourist magnet. Both the mountain regions of the Alps and the Pyrénées offer stunning all-year-round possibilities to vacationers, and so the list goes on and on.

In fact the visitor is spoilt for choice and perhaps best of all, wherever you choose to go there'll be the chance to sample the local tipple and tickle those tastebuds.

But away from the most obvious destinations, there's also a way of seeing another side of France - through the back door if you like - via the network of canals that run the length and breadth of the country.

They offer a more relaxed and slightly slower alternative and it's a way to sample much of the natural beauty France has to offer as well as soaking up more culture and history than you can probably manage.

There are plenty of companies offering boats for hire and a cruising holiday can perhaps most be compared to being a sort of caravan-on-the-water experience - without the traffic jams - where you can change location as much (or as little) as you like and dictate the pace yourself.

It's also the kind of holiday that opens up the chance to visit places that might otherwise not appear on the traditional tourist's agenda.

One such is the case of the area around Joigny on the river Yonne in northern Burgundy, just where the rolling hills of the countryside begin and the food and drink starts getting very interesting.

It's just over two hours (by car) from the capital and in these belt-tightening times is the ideal place for a weekend break or a longer more relaxed stay.

It's the sort of town which perhaps in more prosperous times, when Parisians were willing and able to dig a little deeper into their pockets, might have been second-home territory.

With just over 10,000 people, it's small but with some stunning architecture that reflects its history throughout the centuries.

The grand half-timbered medieval buildings, almost lean in towards each other along the town centre's narrow streets, although many could do with a little bit of TLC.

It can also be the starting point for a trip up the river towards Sens, passing lazily through Villeneuve-sur-Yonne, or heading off in the other direction to Auxerre and the beginning of over 1,000 kilometres of navigable canals.

Whichever you choose, you can determine for yourself how fast and how far you go as there really is no rush to get anywhere in particular

The locks are easy to negotiate and manageable for even the most vehement couch potato, so you can sit back, relax and simply enjoy the scenery...oh yes, and try your hand at taking some snapshots.

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